Two Wheels, Two Days: Cycling the Rail Trail from Sydenham to Clarendon Station

More than years ago, in 1986, the Kingston & Pembroke (K&P) Railway was shut down. For over 100 years it operated as a major freight and passenger line, primarily carrying raw materials like mining products and timber from Renfrew to Lake Ontario. 

William and I have been riding together since we both got serious about cycling back in 2020, but this trip would be more luxurious than most. We had accommodations booked at our turnaround in Clarendon Station, so no sleeping on the ground in a tent for us! And, given the forecast rain, it was a welcome treat. 

We got started in the afternoon, driving out to Sydenham with the bikes on the roof. The nice thing about having somewhere to stay with a roof over your head is it makes packing light a lot easier. So we each only carried about 10lbs of gear in our panniers.

Getting Started: Cataraqui Trail

We parked at the Cataraqui Trail parking lot on Sydenham Walker Road, and soon after saddling up found ourselves passing through wetlands, operating farms, and narrow rock-cut channels through the hills. If we'd needed supplies along the way, there were ample opportunities to stop in quaint small towns like Hartington or Verona – the same towns which once had passenger stations on the old train line. 

In fact, the town of Verona still has a kiosk where the old station was located with a helpful map to check our progress along the trail.

Tasty Stops Before the Storm

After about two hours and 45km of pedaling, we arrived at our first stop of the trip: Seed to Sausage in Sharbot Lake. Specializing in cured meats, this family-owned operation goes out of its way to cater to cyclists travelling along the K&P trail. 

William and I relaxed at their shaded picnic tables while we snacked on tasty baked goods and pepperoni sticks, and refilled our water bottles inside. Of course, before heading out we also stocked up on pepperoni in case we needed a late night snack after a day in the saddle.

When we planned the trip, we weren’t sure what to expect; rail trails can be a mixed bag sometimes, but in this case we were treated to fast-rolling packed stone dust under our tires, making movement quick over the ideal surface. 

And we did have to be quick because we still had another 30 kilometers to go until our next stop at Back Forty Artisan Cheese, and a storm was brewing ahead. So we got moving again with renewed energy (but also laden with cured meats in our panniers) as storm clouds gathered in the distance.

Back Forty Artisan Cheese is another family operation in North Frontenac, tucked away down quiet dirt roads. They are an operating micro-dairy farm, but what drew us there this time was the promise of ending our day with pizza fresh out of their wood-fired oven. 

Our timing couldn’t have been better, as the rain was just starting to fall when we were pulling into the farm past old barns and fields with grazing sheep. We tucked our bikes under the eaves of the bistro and out of the rain, and explored the little shop before tucking into a cheese board. 

Sitting out on the covered patio, we chatted with the business’ owner as he tossed the dough that would become our pizzas. The rain stopped just as we were finishing our meal (pizza always hits the spot after a day on the trail), so William and I saddled up and backtracked the seven or so kilometers to our home for the night.

Bedding Down in Railway History

The home in question was once the passenger rail stop at Clarendon Station, now converted into a quaint cottage rental. Sitting right by the trailside, the location could not have been better, and the accommodations were top notch. 

We felt we were living like kings in the old station, with two bathrooms, three bedrooms, a kitchen and living room, and even a rec room in the old loading bay. A family or two could easily sleep here – sure beats a tent on the ground! 

After hot showers and some TV, luxuries when travelling by bike, it was time to turn in (after a few more snacks from Seed to Sausage, of course).

Our ride in the morning started with cool temps and some net-downhill coasting. Rail beds rarely exceed 1-2% grade, so we hadn’t even noticed the uphill sections the day before. 

Sharbot Lake and Return

Soon enough we found ourselves back in Sharbot Lake for a stop at Cardinal Cafe for coffee and a croissant, perhaps the most typical cycling snack on the planet. The cafe has washrooms, an espresso bar, and a huge assortment of baked goods, all tucked into a cute little renovated church. William and I sat on the patio and enjoyed the caffeinated ambience.

Smooth trails brought us all the way back to Sydenham, and I found myself thinking about how many passengers and loads of freight had passed this way before the railway was decommissioned. I wouldn’t have the opportunity to experience the highlands this way, over smooth gravel trails, without that industry long past. 

But, more importantly, William and I certainly wouldn’t be out here without the hard work of the townships and conservation authorities who made the trail rideable and continue to maintain it.

Back in Sydenham, we loaded up the bikes and headed back to the real world feeling refreshed and accomplished. Standouts for us were the friendliness of everyone we met along the way, and the stellar trail conditions which made enjoying the ride and trail conditions all the easier. 

The section of trail we rode was part of the larger Eastern Ontario Rail Trail Loop (EORTL), a 300+ kilometer loop of connected trails currently in development. 

I found myself already planning the next trip; who knows, maybe the next time it’ll be the whole loop?