That sweet sticky summer air, and the buzzing of the cicadas signal the end of another school year. The smell of fallen pine needles warmed by the sun that touches the forest floor, mixed with the scent of sunscreen on your skin. The sand sticks to your feet as you walk through the rows of pines heading towards the lake, shoes have become optional, and you relish in the feeling of freedom that summer brings. 

Haliburton and the surrounding areas were a favourite as a kid (as they were my parents), and summers spent in the highlands always felt like home. There were no electronics to occupy us back then, and we were always tasked with keeping our eyes peeled for whatever wildlife we could spot along the roadside. 

Every first sighting of rock cuts along our drive north got us completely jazzed, and the same feelings get stirred when I see those impressive cuts to this day. They tell you you’re finally in Canadian Shield country, and it’s a heck of a place to be. 

Driving north with my partner, not too far from our home, I catch the first glimpse of a jagged rock wall that the road cuts through. In my memory I can still hear Dad telling us how they would have used dynamite to cut their way through to pave the roadway, so many of those old stories will stick with me forever. 

Smash burgers at The Mason Jar food truck in Carnarvon

We knew our drive was almost over as we came through the town of Carnarvon in Minden Hills. A food truck at the only major intersection is easily spotted. The Mason Jar is picture worthy just to look at from the parking lot, and then they knock it right out of the park with their fare. There’s something for everyone here; road side pit stops are a summer staple, and this particular one is must.

A doe in front of Bonnie View Inn

Nearing our final stop, Bonnieview Inn on the shores of Kashagawigamog Lake, we catch our first glimpse of the wildlife. A beautiful, healthy doe simply munching on grasses and shrubs about fifty feet from the road, we slow down and take in her beauty. It doesn’t matter how many hundreds of deer we see (even near daily in our own backyard), we always get excited to see another one, and this time was no different. It’s that feeling of awe, being in the quiet presence of a wild animal, that was instilled in us as kids.

The main office at Bonnie View Inn

Once at the inn we were greeted by the owner, Andrea, during our check-in. She excitedly told us about all of their amenities and various features, covering all the details to ensure our stay was incredible. Her enthusiasm was contagious, and it gave me a lot of excitement for the days to come. 

Our well appointed lake view suite at Bonnie View Inn

As soon as we chucked our bags in our room we grabbed our fishing rods and wandered out to the docks. Just as we would as kids, making our way to the water was always first on the list of things to do. We cast into the shallows until it was too dark to see anything, only picking off rock bass here and there, but that same feeling of excitement and “the great unknown” when it comes to fishing is ever present. 

The next morning we slept in, delighting in the climate controlled room, incredibly comfortable king bed, and crisp linens. Our room was one of the Lakeview Suites and it was charming, overlooking the patio and docks. 

We enjoyed a slow morning, fresh brewed coffee, wading in the water, and checking out some nearby fishing spots in our little aluminum boat we brought along. Ample dock space is available if you want to bring your own boat and dock it at the inn for the duration of your stay. 

Abbey Gardens "Food Hub" featuring many locally grown and organic foods

The afternoon rolled around and we headed for town, we had a few stops we wanted to quickly make. First up was a stop back in Carnarvon to visit the Haliburton Highlands Brewing at their brand new location. Next was the Country Bakery where we channeled our inner child and picked out (breakfast) cookies to eat the next morning as we planned to be out on the water at sunrise. 

Our third stop was Abbey Gardens, a pretty little spot full of trails, gardens, a “food hub”, and educational displays. We picked up two incredible looking frozen pizzas made by ‘Into the Blue Bakery’ (which is also on-site) with locally sourced ingredients, to cook on the BBQ back at the Inn, and a huge samosa for the road (it lasted about 20 seconds, it was delish)! 

We went out to find the Ojibway horses, where we learned through the interpretative signs all about the origin of the breed, that this beautiful and hardy breed were brought back from the brink of extinction, and are still critically endangered to this day. 

The Ojibway horses who live at Abbey Gardens

Heading back south towards Carnarvon we stopped at Buttermilk Falls on Boshkung Lake, to hike the trail that runs south, parallel to the falls. We grabbed our fishing rods (because you never know) and I ended up pulling a halfway decent Smallmouth Bass out of the base of the falls. I gotta say it’s pretty cool fishing for Bass in a waterfall! 

A private session with Karley of Wolf Flow SUP Yoga

Our next plan was to meet up with Karley of Wolf Flow SUP Yoga to have a private session on Horseshoe Lake. The sun was just starting to sink in the sky when we met at the shore for our one on one, and the weather was perfect. 

Doing SUP (stand up paddleboard) yoga seemed incredibly daunting; it was only my second time on a SUP, as well as my second time ever trying yoga. Why not slap those two together and hope for the best, right!? We paddled out to a quiet spot on the lake in the setting sun and I let the gently rolling water and my breathing calm my nerves. 

Karley was amazing, guiding me through some simpler stretches and poses, letting me get used to the way the board moved in the water, and allowing me to trust myself. I never once felt judged, and my self doubt was fleeting.

Taking in the views at Minden Wild Water Preserve

Before leaving the Horseshoe Lake area we meandered over to the Minden Wild Water Preserve, walked down the path on the west side of the river and enjoyed the sights and sounds of the beautifully clear rushing water. 

Back at the Inn just after dark we tossed our pizzas on the BBQ and played on the swings until they were ready. We cheers’d some local beers and savoured every last bite. We wandered down to the fire pit on the beach to roast a few marshmallows before heading off to bed, not wanting to miss the sunrise on our last morning.

The view from our balcony at the Inn

Five in the morning came quick, and we brewed some coffee, grabbed our tackle and headed for the docks. The sunrise was incredible, we were treated with such ethereal beauty on Kashagawigamog that morning. We spent all morning exploring the northern half of the lake, fishing, watching wildlife, and just simply admiring the beauty. 

Sunrise over Kashagawigamog Lake

Check-out was 11, and we made it back to the Inn for a shower and just enough time to pack up our things, grab a delicious bite at The Dockside patio, and then hit the road. One more stop was on the list of places we wanted to see, so we said goodbye to the Bonnieview and headed towards an old favourite. Bancroft.

High Falls Dam on Baptiste Lake, Bancroft

Once in Bancroft we made our way north to the High Falls Dam on Baptiste Lake, and then the Eagle's Nest Park. Places I’ve been dozens of times throughout my life and I’ll never get tired of visiting. 

We walked out to the “hawk-watch” platform and took in the scene of the town below, seemingly enveloped by hundreds of trees, that early summer sun slowly sinking lower in the sky. 

The accessible "Hawk-watch" platform at Eagle's Nest Park, Bancroft

Feeling a bit sad that our holiday was coming to an end we figured we had enough time to stop for a Kawartha Dairy cone on our way out of town, because as far as I know, an ice cream cone can fix pretty well anything. Always has been that way, and to be honest I don’t think that will ever change. 

One last moment to slow down and savour summer at Kawartha Dairy, Bancroft

 

Storyteller:

Rachael Harding

Rachael has been exploring the highlands for as long as she can remember, though she calls Northumberland County her home. She’s spent more than a decade now in a fast paced career for 911, and has always found reprieve in the outdoors. Off-duty, if not out on a day-trip to explore the surrounding counties, you’ll find her working on her small hobby farm and caring for her horses, or maybe a stones throw away on the lake casting a line. 

Juggling the intense world of emergency services with the peaceful rhythms of farm life and nature exploration is what really defines her dynamic lifestyle.