Loving Eganville: A Small Town’s Community & Charm Won My Heart

 Ontario’s Highlands is one of my favourite regions to drive through, from its winding roads that twist through the Canadian Shield to the rolling hills and green fields of the farmlands. 

The small towns along the area’s many scenic routes are the proverbial cherry on top, with historic buildings, locally owned shops, and restaurants that support local farms.
 

I stop in Eganville at least once a year, as it’s a lovely spot to take a break and have a bite to eat before continuing my journeys further north. This time, however, the historic town, the Jewel of the Bonnechere River, was my destination, and we’d be staying in the region for three days and two nights to enjoy what it has to offer.

Fifth Chute Coffee

My mom and I left home early in the morning, knowing our first stop would be for coffee and a bite to eat. It was a beautiful and peaceful drive through the Highlands, but after a few hours on the road, we were ready for something to eat.

We pulled up in front of Fifth Chute Coffee (free parking, everywhere in town!) and after I took photos, we went inside to read the menu and place our orders. It was quiet, so I snapped a few pictures of the interior before the late-morning rush and lunchtime crowds started coming in.

Mom ordered a Brie and Bacon with a drip coffee, and I asked for the Roasted Chicken with a Strawberry Rhubarb Shrub to drink (Lemon Italian Soda, seasonal, made with in-house fruit syrup and apple cider vinegar). I also chose a couple of made-from-scratch Chocolate Chip Cookies (topped with flaked sea salt) from their freshly baked goods.

We sat at the back of the coffee shop with our drinks and toasted sandwiches, trading halves, as we had ordered different ones, and we wanted more than a taste of the other’s toasted handheld.

Bloom Wildly

Next door to the coffee shop was Bloom Wildly, a flower boutique with numerous houseplants, fresh-bloom arrangements, home decor, and gifts, as well as hand-crafted arrangements for events, big and small. Planters hung beneath the windows, with colourful flowers in bloom, inviting us inside.

Shawna Plotz, the owner, was behind the counter when we came inside, and for the moment, the three of us were the only people in the shop, so I took advantage and took photos of the beautiful displays of live plants.

Ladders hung parallel to the ceiling, with all kinds of hanging plants, and potted plants filled the staggered shelves. Mom and I were envious of Shawna’s green thumb, and we imagined what it would be like to fill our home with as much greenery as was in Bloom Wildly.
We left empty-handed but full of inspiration. It would have been nice to pick up a plant or two before we headed home.

As the Bonnechere Museum would be closed during our visit, I pre-arranged entry, so we wouldn’t miss exploring the displays depicting Eganville’s history and the artifacts within.

The building was constructed in 1912 to serve as the municipal building after the post office was destroyed in a devastating fire in 1911. The blaze burnt 75 homes, churches, schools, and vital industries in the downtown area and along the Bonnechere River. The townspeople rebuilt, with some buildings made to resemble the original structures that once stood.

Now, this big, beautiful stone building is home to the Bonnechere Museum. Two floors are dedicated to Eganville’s prominent figures and the industries that have shaped the region since the 1800s, as well as the ancient geological wonders this area is known for.

We spent at least an hour taking in the town’s history through the interpretive displays and informational signage, and Tammy further educated us about Eganville, its people, and their perseverance. 

The second floor is the jewel of the museum, with a smorgasbord of artifacts from a previous era. There are eye-catching historical displays everywhere (and a fossil room!); I’m sure I missed some items, as there were so many to see.

Our Space

Next door to the museum is Tammy’s shop, Our Space. The first floor is dedicated to food and munchies, as well as cold drinks, slurpees and ice cream. The second floor is home to over 50 vendors, from visual arts and fabric creations to self-care products, jewellery, and so much more.

There were so many items in the store. I took my time working around the space, taking photos, while Mom shopped (purchasing some tallow skincare and bee pollen). Original artwork and decorative wood paddles, necklaces and earrings, scents and sprays, outfits for babies and fabric kitchen accessories - so many creations to choose from!

I joined my mom on the first floor, still thinking about everything on display upstairs, but on a new mission - Tammy had mentioned ice cream. I thought a delish frozen treat would be perfect on such a hot day, so I opted for a small dish of peach cobbler, Kawartha Dairy’s newest flavour.

Visitor Centre

During our walk downtown, we stopped at Eganville’s Visitor Centre; the log building was only open on weekends until the summer season was in full swing. However, the public restrooms were open, and we appreciated the water refill station for topping up our bottles.  

Behind the Visitor Centre, there were a few picnic tables under the shade of a few trees. As we’d just taken a (cool) break at Our Place, we skipped having a seat. Instead, we crossed the pedestrian footbridge and took in amazing views of the river before having a peek at Centennial Park on the opposite shore. 

It’s a beautiful green space with trails along the water (follow the path long enough, and you’ll gain access to the riverside), a rotunda and a playground where a family was taking advantage of the beautiful weather.

If anyone is hungry when you stop here, pick up snacks and ice cream from Our Space, just 170 metres (a 3-minute walk) from the Visitor Centre.

My Country Home

At the corner of Bonnechere St W. and Grist Mill Road is My Country Home, the historic heritage home built in 1896 that’s become a whole shopping experience. 

The property was inviting; everything was green and lush. The big trees were fully leafed out, and numerous birds could be heard singing overhead. It was a perfect day to be out and about in Eganville.

We learned (from the signage) that this fun shopping location comprises three buildings. We started at The Shed, full of used books and gifts. I had hoped to find a novel, but none were jumping out at me, and I was pretty sure I wouldn’t have any time to read during this trip!

We explored the old Rustic Barn, which had a large selection of home decor and craft supplies. There were many tempting items - a cute, decorative fence for the garden, a lighthouse topped with a solar light, and wreaths and berries for our front door. 

We resisted the urge to pick something up (I still question how we managed that) and walked to the heritage building and the main shopping location of My Country Home. 

The first floor featured a wide selection of jarred preserves, handmade gifts, cards, artwork, decor, and useful home and kitchen items. Mom found a card decorated with paper quilled designs, fitting for a high school graduation. 

Jolly Fryer

After walking through town, exploring the museum, visiting most of Eganville’s stores until well into the late afternoon, and grocery shopping, we were starting to feel a bit peckish. So, we headed to Jolly Fryer, a seasonal “food truck” style eatery with outside seating only.

We pulled into the big parking lot - and it was a busy one - with a dozen cars and a couple of people in line when we walked up. 

As we moved forward, people were queuing behind me, and I was ready to place my order: the Southern Crunch Chicken with Onion Rings. My mom asked for the Bacon Cheeseburger with fries.

There was a separate window for pickups. A name was called every few minutes, and pretty soon our food was ready. I took photos of our dinner quickly - we were taking it to our accommodations to eat - and packed it in an empty cooler to stay warm.

Foodland

We had one last stop before heading to our accommodations for the night: Foodland. We planned to make savoury smores, roast meat (Hungarian Sausage from the deli), and grill Halloumi cheese over the planned campfire. 

We’d tuck those sizzling pieces between slices of Foodland’s fresh-baked Jalapeno Cheddar breadsticks or Rosemary Parmesan Crackers (more like shortbread), and top them with a little Maple Bacon Jam (the latter two made by Provisions, Niagara).

That was the plan, but it never happened. Instead, I made the savoury smores (in the oven) when we came home for a tasty dinner. I added some extra toppings to our spread and even did a few cucumber mouth-sized sandwiches. Delicious.

Deacon Escarpment’s Red Pine Cabin

Check-in was as easy as could be! Zach and Steph, the owners of Deacon Escarpment, let me know how to reach the Red Pine Cabin and that it would be ready when I arrived, with the key just inside the door. It was an easy drive down the dirt-and-gravel road to our accommodations on a peninsula of sorts, surrounded by wetlands.

The cabin was adorable, and the design made use of every inch of space without feeling cluttered. The shelves were lined with pots and pans, a flat plate, a kettle, plates, cups and bowls, and cutlery. A full-size fridge, air fryer, and microwave completed the fully stocked kitchen. 

My bed was already made, and bedding was provided for the pullout loveseat as well (included). Huge picture windows framed two sides of the queen bed, overlooking the marsh - and we also faced toward the west, so we’d have front row seats to the sunset.

We settled down inside to eat our takeaway dinner - in retrospect, we should have sat out in the screened shelter and enjoyed the breeze with our meal, but I think we were too tired to move.

Night seemed to close in on us rapidly; the sun was starting to make its descent, disappearing quickly behind the treeline, and ten minutes later, the sky lit up with colours. I ran outside to take photos near the marsh and from the bench’s viewpoint before beating a hasty retreat back to the cabin.

I brought numerous mosquitoes in with me, and after further discussion, we decided to skip the campfire. We were both pretty tired after our long day. So we settled down, feeling the evening breeze, letting the frog’s chorus lull us to sleep.

Charlie’s Eatery

Mom and I slept in. We must have been quite tired after the previous day’s activities - and we were both quite hungry. We had fresh fruits, thanks to Mom, but as the planner, I should have packed snacks. We didn't have breakfast supplies either, but I had planned to eat at every restaurant in Eganville, covering all our meals.

We wasted no time and drove into town and headed directly to Charlie’s Eatery, arriving just as they opened - I took my photos before we took a table by the window and admired the decor: the eclectic collection of artwork on the walls, the carvings and old games on the shelves, and how cozy the space felt.

We turned to the menu: for this trip, my mom and I decided to order two (very) different meals and share them so we’d get to enjoy both. We selected the Burger with home fries and the Cod Cakes with Charred Broccoli Caesar salad for our early lunch. 

My tummy grumbled as I smelled the lardons and burger patties cooking. The presentation was perfect, and I took my time, capturing their delicious beauty before cutting the burger in half and trading it for a cod cake. We even shared the sides - all of which tasted so good. 

McRae Lookout

With our hunger taken care of, my mom and I were ready to dive into the river’s power and geological wonders of Eganville, starting with a stop at McRae Lookout Park. There are multiple views overlooking the Bonnechere River and the remains of a gristmill.

Grist mills reshaped lives on the Bonnechere River - no longer did farmers need to canoe and portage over 150 kilometres to have their wheat processed! Times have changed, but the memory and the mill’s remains stay fast, reminding us of how the river’s power was harnessed and has left its mark on Eganville. 

John Egan Geo-Heritage Trail

The John Egan Geo-Heritage Trail is an amazing spot not only to appreciate the beauty of the Bonnechere River, but also to explore nature and geology and discover fossils, especially as Eganville is known as the Ordovician Fossil Capital of Canada. 

The area has numerous fossils dating to about 500 million years ago, so whenever I’m walking across exposed rocks, I’m on the lookout for petrified remains.

A short walk past wildflowers (and the dog park) led us to the gated trail entry and into the forest, where most of the routes are packed gravel. We didn’t walk the entire outer loop, as there are many side trails (save this map), such as the Fossil Pit, my favourite.

It’s not my first visit to these trails, and every time I see that sign, I follow it and spend more time than I imagined possible, working the exposed limestone in a grid, looking for fossils. (No tools are allowed, and no collecting is permitted at this site.) 

Bonnechere Caves

We met Chris, the owner of Bonnechere Caves, when we arrived, and he had two tickets for us. Our timing couldn’t have been better: a tour was about to begin with longtime guide Lucas, who had 18 years of experience in the caves, and Jennifer, who was guiding her first group ever.

She was excitedly sharing her knowledge about the 500-million-year-old Ordovician fossils found on the property with another couple as we walked up. We were soon joined by two more people just as the tour began, and we started down the trail. 

Jennifer kept the tour going, leading down the trail to the cave’s official entrance. Pretty soon, we’d be leaving the warm day for cool temperatures below, dropping to 10 degrees. It was at least 28 degrees that afternoon, so that would be a welcome relief - and I brought a sweater to beat the chill and cold, damp air.

The inside of the caves was damp, drips landed on my head, and I could hear the rhythmic pit-pats of droplets, slowly forming stalactites above - and a few stalagmites where the mineral-rich water was landing. It’ll take thousands of years for them to form.

Jennifer pointed out a few fossils visible in the cave’s walls and then pointed upward so we wouldn’t miss the formations above. Ripples of deposits: each tip had a slow-forming drip, leaving minerals behind and making the stalactites infinitesimally bigger.

There is a short cave tunnel that visitors can explore on their own, earning themselves the title of spelunker: exploring a cave without a guide. Four brave guests went down the narrow passageway. I had, however, seen too many movies, and chose to watch them disappear as they crouched and walked out of sight.

The main cave system where the Bonnechere Caves guided tours take place is wide enough that even mild anxiety of tight spaces (like mine) can be overcome. However, if you’re not feeling it, speak up, and you’ll be able to leave.

Fourth Chute

After our descent into the Bonnechere Caves, we walked across the small bridge, going over the Bonnechere River to where the Fourth Chute begins. We took a moment to watch the water’s flow under the crossing and out the other side.

Near the other end of the bridge, across the road from the caves, we followed the small trail down to the river and the first set of cascades, where the river tumbles over rocks. We watched our feet as we crossed the exposed rock, not just to check that our steps didn’t land in a crevice, but to keep an eye out for fossils, and we found some beauties underfoot.

This would have been a great location for a picnic, sitting on the rocks, watching the river and enjoying the cooling spray and breeze coming off the water; alas, we already had meal plans.

Rio Tap and Grill

We had an exciting, full day celebrating the Bonnechere River, with viewpoints, riverside trails, fossil hunting, and guided cave explorations. Now we were ready to top up energy levels with an early dinner at the Rio Tap and Grill.

Mom headed in while I took more photos downtown in the late-afternoon sun. We’d planned to take a seat on the riverside patio (a small, covered eating area overlooking the river), but when I came to join her, she wasn’t there.

I popped up to the rooftop dining area and found her! It was already getting busy - this spot seemed to be a favourite! However, I was looking forward to some shade as we’d already spent most of the day roasting in the sun, so we headed downstairs to the riverside patio.

I was absolutely craving another burger (it’s my favourite meal), so that’s the part of the menu I focused on, after reading all the other options, of course.

After asking a few questions about the various toppings, I settled on the Chicago Burger - with shaved roast beef topping the patty! I added a large Caesar salad for us to share, and my mom ordered the special Creamy Mushroom Fettuccine.

We were the only diners on the riverside patio, so when our food arrived, I set it up on a table in the sun for photos before retreating to our spot in the shade. We ate mostly in silence, savouring our meals, sharing bites of each other’s plates while enjoying the breeze, watching the river flow and the swallows hunting bugs.

Deacon Escarpment Lookout

We couldn’t leave Deacon Escarpment without making our way up the Cell Tower Trail, starting at the parking lot. The trail - a gravel road - started as a rolling incline, gradually rising, then flattening out for a short bit before rising once again. Toward the end, the road rose steeply at what felt like a 45-degree angle. 

NOTE: Sturdy footwear is a must! Loose gravel and rocks - some the size of your fist - will shift underfoot, making the last few hundred metres of the ascent a greater challenge. Don’t forget to bring water!

Hiking past the Cell Tower, about 100 meters to the left, past the marsh, is the lookout (follow the sign). Up top was a picnic table perched on exposed rock with a fantastic view over Golden Lake.

A wonderful breeze was coming up the hill, as we’d hoped for, cooling us off and keeping most of the mosquitoes at bay.

We would have packed a picnic to enjoy at the lookout, but we had big lunch plans that would require an empty stomach!

Shaw Woods

The breeze on the hill had kept most mosquitoes at bay at the lookout, but afterward, we reluctantly decided not to hike at Shaw Woods Outdoor Education Centre. With temps already climbing over 20 degrees and a high of 27 by midday, the biters were active early, and would be worse once in the forest. Haha, I’d fed enough bugs, and my face was getting lumpy.

I was pretty sad about skipping that hike through the old trees. I had been looking forward to an early (and cool) morning on the easy (1.7 km) Old Growth Trail and seeing the ancient forest, as I’ve only walked among giants in Northern Ontario.

Rotary Beach

We arrived back in Eganville mid-morning, and with some time to spare before our lunch stop, we visited the Rotary Beach. It’s a nice spot, with a wide, open grassy area, a swing set, a covered eating area with picnic tables, and restroom and changeroom facilities.

The beach was nice and sandy, with a dock for launching watercraft and jumping into the clear waters. Sunfish and minnows swam in the shallows, and in the reeds, frogs were jumping and croaking. 

The waters were still warming up, and school was still in session (my visit was during the first week of June), so the park was quiet. We stood on the dock, enjoying the breeze that would soon clear the sky of clouds.  

The Granary Schnitzel Haus

We skipped breakfast, knowing we were visiting The Granary Schnitzel Haus, and wanted to leave enough room in our stomachs to eat there. This restaurant opened over 30 years ago, converted from an old store built in 1889, and from what I’ve been told, it’s a not-to-be-missed spot!

We both loved the decor, the heavy use of wood throughout and the walls - they were covered in paintings, many of which felt like the Group of Seven inspired them. Some of the artwork was for sale; I wanted to bring one home, but I have nowhere to hang it! 

I focused on the menu, as we’d be sharing; one of us would be ordering a schnitzel of some type, so I perused the handhelds and kept coming back to the pulled pork sandwich, so that’s what I asked for. 

My mom ordered the Bavarian Schnitzel - if she hadn’t, I would have changed my meal to that one: a smoked meat and sauerkraut stuffed schnitzel! I also added the Four Cheese Spinach dip with deep-fried pita chips - and no lie, this was the best I’d ever tasted.  

We shared our plates; the Bavarian schnitzel was amazing, the pulled pork was tasty, and not one drop of four-cheese spinach dip was left when I was done with it. As this would probably be our only meal of the day (and we were heading home after eating), we decided to squeeze in some dessert.

A Peanut Butter cheesecake (limited-time offer) for me, and an Austrian classic, Sachertorte (chocolate cake layered with Apricot jam and glazed in chocolate), for my mom. Sweet endings for a wonderful trip. 

Lasting memories: A Lovely Community on the Bonnechere River

We’d spent 3 days in Eganville, and I could have used an extra day or two to enjoy everything this town has to offer. Quite often, as a photographer/writer, I aim to cover as many local gems as I can, which means less time at each location, but I wouldn’t change a thing. 

Our days were jam-packed with local shopping, learning history and exploring natural wonders. Before we even left to come home, we were already talking about returning to the amazing community and Town of Eganville.